Revelations (not the book of)...

I've been thinking about why I even started this blog as it is beginning to feel a bit self serving. As I was rambling on about my feelings on calorie counting or my opinions on zest vs. juice, I realize that I may be the only one remotely intersted in reading my streams of consciousness and that I should likely regroup and connect with my original intent.

I am not Orangette or the Pioneer Woman by any stretch of the imagination and I certainly don't want to embarrass myself by driving my own family away from something I wanted to do for them. I originally came up for this idea to record Mom's recipes and keep her close to my heart. It's as simple as that. Test the recipes, spark my memories and get them on paper (virtual paper) for my family.

So many people don't have the chance to learn about food and cooking from their Moms and this is a chance for me to allow us to continue learning from my Mom. Whatever you may have called her - Hetty Rai, Mrs. Pat Widgen, Hester Racilia, Bessy (apparently that is what her grandfather wanted to call her when she was born, because Hetty Rai was too much name for a little one. She also used to mention that Bessie was also their cow's name). This is a chance to recreate memories based on these carefully typed and crafted recipes.

Within these index cards and notebook paper, it turns out there are few instructions and many combinations of ingredients that I don't know how to work with. As I began, I wonder... is it me? Will I never have the knack to work with such a sparse recipe? I'm a product of the Food Network, for heaven's sake. What is the technique? Is there a gentle spatula touch of a Mom (my Mom) raised in a different world? A world without pictures for every step?

These questions make me compelled to continue recording these recipes in my own way. And to find the ones that I don't have recipes for too! Or to re-create those favorites that I remember with my sisters if I have to. Cinnamon rolls, butterscotch scotchies, fried chicken, key lime freezer pie, strawberry pie (a Shoney's rip-off, I do believe).

I know that a poorly written recipe can be a very bad thing. I've suffered countless disappointments from what should have been an easy "scampi" or "perfect" ginger cookie. Thanks Martha, for many of those lessons. So I love the idea of recording these recipes for us all to use (wouldn't Mom love to see Josh making her Lemon Squares for his friends?),and adding the instruction that those of use bred by Alton Brown and Julia need to re-create what Mom so lovingly made for her family. I miss you Mom but will keep a piece of you with me through your recipes and my memories!

Lemon Squares - an old favorite!

Yum! I'm melting as I just bit into the lemony goodness of a leftover square. It was yummy, tangy and brought me back to a time when mom used to bake all the time. Lemon Squares were a staple for me, she could whip up a batch in no time for a bake sale, 4th of July picnic or just a little trip to a friend's house.

A sugary crust has formed on the top of mine, just a tiny layer to give a bit more crunch, and the rest are now calling my name. No one should take the bet that the last 3 made it through the night.

I somehow keep forgetting to photograph my finished product (there is one career I can give up on, at least) so I only have this image of the pan right out of the oven. I like the browned spots on top that give you a clue of the sugary crunch.

I chose to make the Lemon Squares as it was Kristen's birthday (continuing my strategy of unloading the goods as quickly as possible for others to enjoy). Lemon Squares are so versatile - you can serve them for any occassion and cut them into giant, homey squares or tiny, sweet shapes like petit fors. For my first batch, I cut a few of both shapes, boxed them up and headed off to celebrate with Kristen.

Turns out she loves Lemon Squares and her mom used to make them for her too! Although she calls them Lemon Bars, (which somehow seems wrong to me?) I was thrilled and realized once again why Kristen and I are such good friends - similar chilhoods, Moms that baked and doted on us and lots of small town values that we can't hide. Thanks Mom, for teaching me how to forge friendships and happiness through food (and Lemon Squares)!

Who (or What) is Sally Lunn?

Before I even start this one, I need to do some research as I don't quite remember what Sally Lunn Bread quite looks, feels or tastes like. My memory tells me it is soft and buttery, a little like brioche but I can't be certain that memory is of something Mom made or just a part of my many food dreams that I can't always decipher. Maybe the research will help me remember...

Mom's recipe gives me very little clue as to what it should look like or how it is made. Does it need to rise? Do I combine wet with dry? See recipe above for explanation. This one is a particularly sparse Hetty Rai recipe, which leads to yet another lesson. I had yet to fully respect these recipes for so much more than frivolous records created in the case that you are having a dinner party or must attend a potluck (how many rcipes do I have cut out from F&W or saved to our inbox from epicurious.com? I now see that these handwritten recipes (pre-Internet) were for frequent use and likely provided by friends or family members that you could consult with for questions. Based on the title written in Mom's signature handwriting, this one came from Aunt Kathryn. Mom's aunt (her mom's sister) whom she lived with growing up. I don't remember Kathryn very well. I remember her husband Stuart more vividly as he was funny and very sweet to kids. I do remember Kathryn and Stuart's house smelling yummy when I would visit as a child so she must have whipped up some Sally Lunn at some point. Anyone know?

In my memory, Sally Lunn is a yeasty dough that would need to rise and was baked in a bundt pan. However what I read on mom's notebook paper gives no indication of rising time. So back to the research. It would be nice to know who the heck Sally Lunn was and how she got so lucky to have a bread named after her.

When googling, I find it surprising that there is NO wikipedia entry. In my experience there has been a wikipedia entry for almost anything of value. I almost took the liberty of listing a few things I have googled and been surprised to see the "wiki" listing. I then rethink that idea for fear of full exposure into my madness when left to my own googling (has anyone ever talked to Pat Widgen about Google? I am my father's daughter).

It turns out that Sally Lunn is one of those recipes that is so old it can be called a "receipt," the name given to cooking instructions up until several generations ago. The way to prepare and serve it, however, is as varied as the stories about why it is called "Sally Lunn."

There are recipes that call for yeast and those that call for baking powder. There are recipes that call for half a pound of butter, or butter the size of an egg, or shortening in place of butter. Some use cornmeal and some call for adding lemon peel and spices to the flour. Some say to put the dough in a square pan, others call for a round pan, loaf pans, muffin tins, even a bundt (I knew it!).

As for the name, historic lore seems to suggest that Sally was the daughter of a pastry chef in Bath, England. Because the bun is similar to a French brioche (yes, it might not have been a dream after all!), others say she must have been French.
My favorite rendition is that Sally Lunn is a corruption of "sol et lune," the French words for sun and moon that may have been used to describe the round shape of the buns, or perhaps a French word like "solimeme" for a type of brioche. Mmmm french brioche - yum! So much butter! Can I start cooking and stop boring anyone reading this? Not yet.

I also found this description which seems to suggest that it can be almost anything that reminds you of bread - "Sally Lunn Cake: a large sponge cake-like bread, more like a bread than a cake that is either yeast or baking powder based that can be made either into a cake, buns, rolls, or even a loaf of bread." One last point, based on menus I remember offering Sally Lunn and the entries I am finding, it appears this is Southern fare and not something you are going to find north of the Mason-Dixon.

Finally, on to Mom's recipe which is the baking powder version. I choose to go with a loaf pan as it seems to be the closest to what would allow for a bread of 1.5 inches when baked. I find this point of 1.5 inches very interesting and is the first time I can see Mom taking down the recipe, while Aunt Kathryn dictates. Here are a few things I noticed in the process of attempting this recipe:
--4 teaspoons of baking powder: holy cow, that seems like a lot of baking powder
--This seems to be more of a batter than a dough - very wet and quick bready
--It smelled yummy and eggy while cooking, almost like a custard
--It cracked on top while baking and had the texture of a cornbread, more than a brioche

I am pretty certain once I have mixed the ingredients that the oven is not going to be able to transform this into the bread I remember. It is feeling more like something I would serve for breakfast than the buttery, soft bread that I envisioned serving with my dover sole. The finished product does smell scrumptios and rich but it is crumby like a loaf of stale banana bread or poundcake. The crust that has formed on top makes it interesting but overall this is no where close to what I remember and I am chalking this one up to karma. I can't help but think that maybe Mom took the recipe just to appease her Aunt and missed a few things in the notes. In fact, I almost hear Mom telling me to move on from this one as she never made it anyway.